27.8.14 – Day 25 – (水)

Hiroshima (広島) – Matsuyama (松山)

Today I would depart for the smallest of the islands that make up Japan. Shikoku had lots that caught my interest
1. Home of Udon noodles
2. Easy access to Naoshima and Teshima
3. Kinashi Bonsai village in Takamatsu
4. A chance to see how different people in Shikoku are to their main island counterparts

Matsuyama is Shikoku’s largest city easily and cheaply accessible by ferry from Hiroshima. Ferry is possibly one of the less conventional ways of traveling for most international travelers or even Japanese travelers it seems.

Hiroshima Port –> Matsuyama Kanko Port (via Kure)

As usual, a slower method of transport brings in a wealth of scenery. I would arrive at Kanko port and figure out that the ‘Bus Limousine’ departs 3mins BEFORE the ferry arrives, leaving me with a 1.5 hour wait for the next one. However if I took the more expensive and faster ferry from Hiroshima I would be on time to every possible connecting bus. Perhaps a way to entice people to spend more money?

Prior to Matsuyama, I had organised a few days stay with a couchsurf host and her family. My host was Kiyoka Shimuzu, a mother of 3 children, a vocal trainer and such an open minded family . This would be one of the most pleasant experiences as of so far. More on that as we progress through Matsuyama!

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Nice and dark to start the afternoon!

Arrived at Kanko port

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Chino of the day

Being a good cat.

So why be a good cat?

One particularly special lady and I love cats and our lives revolve around catty talk, cat themes and cat revolved agendas. So in all appropriateness she asks me to be a good cat. Cats by nature do whatever they please. However to be a good cat it means I can still do whatever I please but with a certain extent of restraint. Be sensible, be smart, be sharp, be loyal.

Be a good cat.

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26.8.14 – DAY 24 – (火) – second half

Hiroshima (広島)

Peace Memorial Park and Peace Museum

Please remember the victims on that fated day.

The visit began with getting lost along the way from Okonomi-mura to the Peace Memorial Park. I did not know what to expect, but getting lost paved out the chance to give me some thinking time about I could expect, what emotions it will bring and to reduce my excitement and enthusiasm from the okonomiyaki before (I was indeed extremely satisfied)

I walked through what appeared to be a sports facility and complex, a few other parks and various streets. It occurred to me just how Hiroshima looked at this point. From my understanding it is a place that was rebuilt after the A-bomb and therefore it is in some way renewed and made afresh.

But how much exactly? From what extent of damage did it recover from?

I was about to find out.

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I encountered the A-bomb dome. A nuclear weapon exploded directly above this. It still stands today.

Right above.

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I encountered various memorials where paper cranes are placed as a symbol of unity and peace.

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I encountered the museum that conveyed the horrors of the A-Bomb in two harrowing sections of the building.

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I encountered the chilled feeling when reading about the events that unfolded til the explosion

The solemness that the building and the people inside conveyed.

The harrowing reality as I moved from reading about the prequel to the explosion to looking at the effects on victims.

The crescendo of emotions as I saw actual artefacts belonging to victims who perished shortly after horrific burns.

The charred hair and skin donated by families of the victims.

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The experience left me saddened. Yet prior to visiting to the Peace Memorial Museum I had heard and read stories of renewal, acts and deeds that gave hope to the citizens of Hiroshima after that day. Among all, the one that particularly stood out to me is about the ‘Hibaku Jumoku’.

These are the ‘survivor trees’.

Trees that were less than a kilometer from the epicenter of the blast.

Trees that burst with life despite encountering a calamity the world had never seen before.

Trees that rejuvenate giving fresh hope to the hopeless and lost.

Trees, that after being scorched by searing temperatures that melted flesh and clothes, stood to defy the atrocity that mankind has inflicted on one another.

I had came to Japan to know about her nature wonders and seek out the trees that make this country. These entities of wood and water have redefined their significance and role in our lives. If cranes are the symbol of peace for Hiroshima, then trees are the symbols and statements that scream out to world that nothing can quell the spirit of those who fight for righteousness.

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For my part as a lover of trees and how they work physically, I want to show how exactly they be strong and continue to do so. I was a bit sad that in my time in visiting this one particular tree right next to the Peace Museum, no one came to visit the tree.

Don’t worry oh lonely survivor. I will continue to show you to the world.

After over half a century, the scars still remain.

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Despite the solemnity of this post there is an avenue that we can take joy in:

Chino of the day

26.8.14 – DAY 24 – (火) – First half – (縮景園)

Hiroshima (広島)

Having a day in Hiroshima is something that came up by chance. It has always been a city of interest to me, however at this point my desire to go to Shikoku (四国) was stronger. There were many things in Shikoku that I wanted to see and I had found a couchsurf host in Matsuyama (松山) that agreed to host for a few days from 27th of August.

This left me with one day free between going from Fukuoka and Matsuyama. The journey to Matsuyama from Fukuoka would have been a 14 hour ordeal on a bus, would have wasted a day and also spend on another night on accommodation. An overnight bus with Hiroshima as the pit-stop was ideal.

The day began with a groggy wake-up at 6am in Hiroshima. I stayed at K’s Backpackers Hostel close to JR Hiroshima station, yet the bus terminal was a good 30 mins walk from the hostel. It would feel like an hour with sleep deprivation and a heavy rucksack.

After a 7am arrival and check-in, I decided on three critical must visit locations:

1. Shukkei-en (縮景園) to appease my instinct to visit gardens
2. Okonomi-mura (お好み村) that is 3 floors of okonomiyaki stalls (synonym: heaven)
3. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial and Museum

I will focus on the first two for this post. The 3rd deserves it’s separate. Definitely.

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Shukkei-en is a 15 minute walk from K’s Backpackers. The entrance fare is 500 yen similar to many other gardens visited. Shukkei-en is certainly a delight. The main attraction is a large lake with many islets covered with meticulously shaped pinus thunbergii and moss. The strolling garden hosts a range of landscapes that mimics scenery types such as the valley, the ocean, the mountain. This reflects the name of the garden: 縮景園 or ‘shrunken scenery garden’

It is one of the gardens I have enjoyed the most so far. I spent 4 hours there sketching and sitting down contemplating. By the time I was finished it was only 12.30pm because of my early start in Hiroshima.

A very impressive strolling garden.

This is probably one of my favorite photos

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Lunchtime was appropriately at the famous okonomi-mura. Upon entering each floors I was greeted with a chorus of ‘irashae’s. The okonomiyaki stalls were close to each other I felt bad sitting at one when the next door greeted me so warmly! At the end I quickly sat at a moderately busy stall and asked for the recommendation. Behold.

Onto the Peace Memorial and Museum.

26.8.14 – Day 24 – (火)

Fukuoka (福岡) to Hiroshima (広島)

(The day before 26.8.14)

8pm – Tabicolle, the owner let me stay late despite checking out earlier that day. So I decided to cook dinner yet again

9pm – Food eaten. What am I going to do for 3 hours?

9.15 – Some Koreans appear in the kitchen

10pm – We seem to be getting on pretty well. Their English is heavily broken but they ask some hilarious questions (“Which one us is the most handsome? Tell us! Be honest! Please tell us!”)

10.15 – They give me some beer and more chat

10.30 – I’m sure enjoying this.

11.30 – GOTTA DASH TO BUS TERMINAL THAT IS 20 mins walk and 30 mins with a heavy pack!

12.15am – Arrived bus terminal and found platform.

12.24am – What a relief. To Hiroshima!

I only have one day in Hiroshima after arriving and it was an intense day. Follow in the next post!

Daifuku as my midnight snack

25.8.14 – Day 23 – (月) – ACROS Fukuoka

Fukuoka (福岡)

This time in Fukuoka I had the whole day til 12.24am that is the scheduled time of my bus to Hiroshima. A couchsurfer who I asked to stay with in Fukuoka could not host but instead suggested an interesting place for me to go. This location is the ACROS building in central Fukuoka.

As the pictures show it is a massive green roof! As an avid plant lover, a stroller and a Landscape Architecture, this type of sightseeing is right up my alley. Despite the mosquitoes, the air was certainly different from the surrounding area and offered a fantastic view. In a city of a country that is infamous for the crazy amount of hardscape and concrete, this green roof is a refreshing sight.
(For more information about this incredible landscape: http://www.greenroofs.com/projects/pview.php?id=476)

Oh… I get to go in!

I scaled at least 10 flights of stores intertwined within the green roof

After many hours ogling at the ACROS building, I departed for the hostel and was reminded where I was after seeing some streets stores. I in am Fukuoka, still in Kyushu, the home of ramen in Japan. Surely I can make one more eat-out meal possible in my extremely tight budget? Surely…

SURELY INDEED IT WAS THE MOST SATISFYING LAST BOWL OF TONKOTSU RAMEN I HAVE HAD (of many) IN KYUSHU. No regrets.

To Hiroshima!

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Chino of the day

I love her 😀

24.8.14 – Day 22 – (日)

Kagoshima (鹿児島) to Fukuoka (福岡)

Today I sadly leave Kagoshima for Fukuoka with the intention of dropping by a night and then catching an overnight bus from Fukuoka to Hiroshima. It will save both a bit of time and money and allows to me to spend another day in Fukuoka.

Re:Fukuoka and also a return to Tabicolle backpackers which is a small but quaint guesthouse. I have become quite fond of it for its homely atmosphere and the people it seems to attract the most (Koreans and Japanese it seems mostly!) Speaking of Koreans, Fukuoka is a big destination for many as it seems for I met many here! The reason is that Fukuoka is about a 50min ferry ride from Busan of South Korea.

Tempting…

I arrived at Fukuoka Bus Terminal around 3pm and proceeded to walk the familiar route to Tabicolle and use the night to catch up on work, emails and experiment with Japanese ingredients. This time it was experimenting with ‘dashi’ and ‘miso’. Both quintessential ingredients to making anything taste extremely addictive.

The result was miso-udon with softboiled eggs and spring onions. Self cooked food is always much more satisfying to eat.

Obligatory wild cat picture of course

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Chino of the day

She is loving Lady Petrova’s!

23.8.14 – Day 21 – (土)

Kagoshima (鹿児島)

Staying in Kagoshima an extra few days was due to a bit of luck. Another couchsurfer was meant to surf at Hiroko’s but backed out, leaving a vacancy for me to conveniently fill. And convenient it was, for the Hiroko informed me the day before of the Hanabi Matsuri to take place tonight! Not to be missed for I desperately wanted to see one after the disappointment in Kurume a few weeks earlier.

Tonight would be my first ‘Matsuri’ which is ‘festival’ and as expected the crowds were massive. One of the finest moments would be approaching the Dolphin Port to find enormous lights illuminating the sky with great bursts fire followed by the cheering of crowds amongst the street. My sight was filled with people walking around in yukata, the streams of light from ‘yatai’ food stalls (which was made ‘takai’ because of the event) and the sporadic booms in the air.

Despite the crowds, it turned out to be an excellent festival filled with food, pretty people, a warm cheery atmosphere and every reason to go out and watch the sky explode.

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Chino of the day

Look who is popular! (Lady Petrova fashion boutique in Melbourne)

22.8.14 – Day 20 – (金)

Kagoshima (鹿児島)

Today was a lazy day in terms of walking. However I did catch up with some blogging (this blog is still… yikes, one month late). I did hike a hill that offered some panoramic views of Kagoshima yet I was without my camera. The reason? Occasionally leaving the camera behind and traveling light in the same area offers a slight differ in feeling that still makes it a unique experience. Two kilograms off the back definitely makes the different.

The rest of the day was napping and buying local sweets.

Sweet potato biscuits and cream pudding.

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Chino of the day

21.8.14 – Day 19 – (木) – Shukkei-en

Kagoshima (鹿児島)

Today I did what I did best: gravitate towards gardens.

Shukkei-en is located by a 30min bicycle ride out of central Kagoshima and enjoys a panoramic view of Sakurajima and the coast. Having a volcano next your city is pretty frightening but amazing at the same time. Kagoshima has ash just piled up on the sidewalks from the constant active of Sakurajima.

It hosts an array of landscapes and landmarks: notably the stone lanterns, a rare shrine dedicated to cats, a teahouse adorned by a lake and gardens and lastly a Kyokusai garden. The Kyokusai garden is a fascinating design. It is the oldest in Japan and is a landscape designed for ‘poetry parties’ where poets will need invent a poem before a paper cup or object hits the end of the (very) slow flowing stream. I assume with the appropriate alcohol this type of poem party will be rockin’.

Speaking of rocks, the rock formations in the garden I felt were fantastic and the walkability of the garden whilst not as clear as some other gardens in Japan offered adequate rset points with plenty of borrowed views to enjoy. I will let the pictures do the talking.